Fried Chicken Face-Off: 1911 vs 2021

Hello Tastorians welcome to a special Saturday episode of Tasting History and it is special   because iI am here with a guest the first time. I’ve had a guest actually   on the show not in my kitchen this is Chef Kiki from Chef Kiki’s Kitchen, owner and proprietor and   chef to the stars including diddy it’s actually love now so ah so yeah   it’s changed it’s official it’s on his driver’s license and everything oh my god yeah   anyway what are we making today so we’re gonna be doing two versions of fried chicken we’re gonna do   my own modern version as well as a recipe from the 1911 cookbook good things to   eat as suggested by rufus rufus and kiki’s fried chicken this time on tasting history   so chef tikki and i have been looking to do something for quite a while actually her mother   reached out to me on instagram uh which was which is so much fun my daughter is a chef so so we’ve   been looking for something to do together for for months now and then you had the idea to do it   today specifically on a saturday because today is juneteenth which is a holiday here in the u.s that   a lot of people especially outside of the us don’

Fried Chicken Face-Off: 1911 vs 2021

t know about correct it commemorates   the june 19 1865 announcement of general order number three by union army general gordon granger   when he arrived on the island of galveston texas and proclaimed the people of texas are informed   that in accordance with a proclamation from the executive of the united states all slaves   are free so once we decided on a date to do the the episode we wanted to look at some cookbooks   and and find a recipe of course and one of the cookbooks that we found   was the first cookbook by an african-american chef good things to eat as suggested by rufus   cut up two chickens put a quarter of a pound of butter mixed with a spoonful of flour into   a saucepan with pepper salt little vinegar parsley green onions carrots and turnips into a saucepan   and heat steep the chicken in this marinade three hours having dried the pieces and floured them   fry a good brown garnish with fried parsley so this is rufus’s chicken but what is yours like   so mine is very different mine’s buttermilk a little hot sauce a seasoning i cannot tell you   paprika garlic powder salt a little bit of tony’s and that’s it what is tony’s   oh tony’s is a creole seasoning really really good spicy it will make you that is tony’

Fried Chicken Face-Off: 1911 vs 2021

s there it is   i thought i saw that i was like i recognized that let’s see what’s in front of me for the last 20   minutes no if you’ve ever used it so we’re we’re going to use it when we fry the chicken and i will   let you know right now like you will choke like just by the way it happens what a dork chef tony   is i don’t know if you can see this oh my god wait let me what a geek that can’t be him he’s   got those um i don’t believe it he’s got those glasses that you like used to wear when you were   playing basketball you had to wear glasses back in the 90s safety goggles that’s what yeah   poor chef tony yes that’s sad so that is your recipe for chef rufus’s recipe what you’ll need is   two small chickens a quarter pound of butter so we melted the butter um   it’s a pikachu on the bowl cute you put the flour in there turnips carrots green onions i feel like   this is the healthiest fried chicken recipe ever it’s all green and there’s some butter in it   i don’t know it seems healthier than well healthier than buttermilk but i guess the   vegetables yeah but when you when you put in like the butter that’s in there it’s   not like you’

re actually eating any of these vegetables it’s just in a exactly it’s just   to marinate flavor yeah and i mean i’m gonna assume like vinegar when he said a little bit then just salt and pepper and then he talks about additional flour for flowering and then fried   parsley which he actually has a recipe for which basically is just taking parsley and throwing   it into a deep fryer right which there’s nothing wrong with that either no looking forward to that and voila we have our already marinated chicken thank you for doing that ahead   of time of course of course um so yeah we it says on the recipe to dry it it doesn’t say to  

Fried Chicken Face-Off: 1911 vs 2021

rinse it um which probably is because you kind of want the chicken to still have some type of   coating on there otherwise once you dump it into the flour it’s not going to stick right   so you know that’s probably why it’s just a quick little pat dry and then into the flour so i’m just   going to drop it in there she sounds skeptical i’m very skeptical because it’s not wet and it’s like   it’s working it is working though mr estes knew what he was   doing he just might have been on something was a chef it is working it’s very coated mine is   quite different face is still flour though so my secret that i put in is also cornstarch are   you ready for this tony’s because i’m telling you right now when we pour it you are going to start   choking it is jesus after you die putting the tonys in the flour um you want to add some paprika   a little bit of rosemary not a lot ground sage some ground thyme to add salt to whisk it up   and then he probably would have used lard to fry this and so that’s what we’re going to be using so you never want to crowd the pan when you’re trying and we’ll get crispy so   we’

t long after moving to chicago that he got a job with a very prestigious pullman service   plumbing cars were these like luxury train cars that you could rent out and some people would like   rent them for long long periods of time to take them all the way across the country and he was put   in charge of some of these cars and this is this is where he like started to become a celebrity   because he was a chef for other celebrities like someone else i know he gives quite an   exhaustive list of some of the people that he cooked for but they include presidents   benjamin harrison and grover cleveland as well as henry morton stanley the african explorer   famous for the line dr livingston i presume as he rose to the top of his profession he   got a job on the empress of china which was a steamer ship that took him from vancouver   to tokyo where he got to visit the cherry blossom festival obviously in high demand he ended up   getting a job under arthur stillwell who was a railroad magnate and was put in charge of a 20   000 train car and after that he was noticed by people at the united states steel corporation   this is andrew carnegie and jp morgan’s people and ended up becoming the head chef   for the united states steel corporation in chicago now this of course was a time before   food network or youtube where you could be a chef on youtube and uh so this was kind of   the top this was this is the end of the line when it came to career unleu were working 

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  like in a major hotel in london or paris or new york but just like celebrity chefs or youtube   chefs today he decided to top off his career by writing a cookbook and in 1911 he published   good things to eat as suggested by rufus and it was the first cookbook by a black   chef there had been other cookbooks written by african americans before that but it was   never a professional chef who had written them so it was it was kind of a big deal and one of   my favorite things is that we actually still have the book announcement of when it went on sale   mr rufus estes an author mr rufus estes our congenial friend has completed his book entitled   good things to eat the first copy was auctioned off at the office of the illinois steel company   where mr estes is employed the assistant secretary was the purchaser it brought 11   the book will be sold for 50 cents a copy and can be secured at 3408   state street so the other cool thing about his cookbook is the sheer breadth of recipes um   everything from what you’

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